We did our research on Koh Phi Phi, and we were aware that it may be expensive and that it may not necessarily be the place for backpackers. "How bad could it be?" we thought. We decided to leave beautiful and pleasant Koh Jum for Phi Phi. Soon, after arrival, we learned that it probably was, in fact, one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The water was a bright and vibrant blue. The cliffs were towering, and the jungle was thick and jungly (if that helps at all). However, the beauty was completely overshadowed by the development and the mass amount of tourists: suitcase tourists. Immediately after stepping onto the pier you heard loud electronic music blasting, and a man's voice through a megaphone who made sure you knew that you had to pay 20 baht for the island's "clean up" fee otherwise you were not allowed to enter. There were people everywhere! Tourists were being shouted at by the locals who were trying to fill their guesthouses' rooms or fill spots in their day treks (snorkeling, sightseeing, etc...). Shops, stands, restaurants, bars, and guesthouses (which seemed to be plopped on top of bars) we're crammed into the area between the north and south beaches of Ton Sai. It was crazy, and not the kind of place we were looking for. Sure, with of group of friends and in about 5 years (since we were much younger than the average person there), Phi Phi could provide a great time. If you're into partying everyday on an expensive island, look no further. We had to leave Ton Sai, though, because we couldn't stand it. Long beach was to the east and within an hours walk, so that's where we headed. Enroute were a couple of high points; from them you could see most of Phi Phi. Despite the over development, it was a sight to behold. After making it to Long Beach, we realized everything was really clean and nice, but definitely out of our price range. To confirm this, we stopped by a reception counter and asked how much a room ran for: 4,500 baht. Remember, 30 baht to 1 USD. At that moment we realized we should've believed what we read. Phi Phi really wasn't for us. We did manage, though, to find a "cheap" room in Ton Sai, and we did enjoy great Indian cuisine that night, but we both knew we didn't belong there, so we made plans to head to Krabi the next day.
So here we are in Krabi, and with great satisfaction I can tell you that it is wonderful. The people, locals and tourist, are really nice and down to earth. The food is cheap, and so are the rooms. As I write this, I am sitting in an clean AC room that costs only 600 baht. Sure, it's not as pretty as Phi Phi, but, at the moment anyway, I'd stay in Krabi before Phi Phi 9 times out of 10. Without a motorbike, Krabi could prove to be dull, but we each have one and we've been bumming around everywhere with them. Yesterday we went to Khao Phanom Bencha National Park, which contained a beautiful 11-tiered waterfall. At its very top, we were able to enjoy its crystal clear and refreshing water. That was the destination, but everyone knows the journey is usually better. Indeed it was. It took us about an hour to get there, we missed our turn several times, found ourselves on a dirt trail through private rubber plantation, then soaring next to gigantic cliffs that shot out of the ground. It was (as Jeremy Clarkson would say) proper fun. This is probably why I like Krabi so much. Unlike Phi Phi, where you feel like you're a sheep in a herd, in Krabi you have independence and can create your own adventure. You could find yourself in the wrong place on a motorbike, or realize that someone is hurdling towards you on the wrong side of the road. In summary, Krabi let's you know that you're alive, unlike in Phi Phi where you may find yourself paying big money to saturate yourself with alcohol, whither, and die away in the sun.
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